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Pha That Luang
Pha That Luang
Address Muang Saisettha
Keyword religious/spiritual, monument, religious/spiritual
The most important national monument in Laos, Pha That Luang is a
symbol of both the Buddhist religion and Lao sovereignty. Its full
official name, Pha Chedi Lokajulamani, means World-Precious Sacred
Stupa, and an image of the main stupa appears on the national seal
and in countless other places. Legend has it that Ashokan
missionaries from India erected a thâat or reliquary stupa here to
enclose a piece of the Buddha's breastbone as early as the 3rd
century BC.
Excavations have found no trace of this, but did find suggestion of
a Khmer monastery that might have been built near here between the
11th and 13th centuries AD. The monument looks almost like a gilded
missile cluster from a distance. Surrounding it is a high-walled
cloister with tiny windows, added by King Anouvong in the early 19th
century as a defence against invaders. Even more aggressive-looking
than the thick walls are the pointed stupas themselves, which are
built in three levels. In 1641, Gerrit van Wuysthoff, an envoy of
the Dutch East India Company, visited Vientiane and was received by
King Suriya Vongsa in a reportedly magnificent ceremony at Pha That
Luang. The Lan Xang kingdom was at its peak and van Wuysthoff was
deeply impressed by the 'enormous pyramid, the top of which was
covered with gold leaf weighing about a thousand pounds'.
Unfortunately, the glory of Lan Xang and Pha That Luang was only to
last another 60 years or so. Repeated damaging assaults were carried
out during the 18th century by invading Burmese and Siamese armies.
Then, in 1828, a Siamese invasion ransacked and depopulated
Vientiane to such an extent that Pha That Luang remained abandoned,
and eventually dismantled by treasure seekers, until it was (badly)
restored by the French in 1900. That restoration left the stupa
looking a bit too chunky and none too attractive, at least that's
what the locals thought. In a victory of town-planning over history,
the orientation was changed so that the main entrance faced south,
rather than east. This meant the wide new Th That Luang ran straight
up to the stupa, but didn't fit with traditional Buddhist doctrine,
which has most temples and religious monuments facing east. In
fairness to the French, they did try to fix it. Changing the
orientation back was clearly too hard, but between 1931 and 1935 a
French university department dismantled the stupa and rebuilt it in
the original Lao-style lotus-bud shape. For guidance they used the
drawings of French explorer and architect Louis Delaporte, who had
stumbled on the abandoned and overgrown Pha That Luang in 1867 and
made a number of detailed sketches of the monument. Pha That Luang
is about 4km northeast of the centre of Vientiane at the end of Th
That Luang. Facing the compound is a statue of King Setthathirat.
The temple is the site of a major festival, held in early November .
Other attractions in Vientiane: Lao National Museum | Papaya Spa | Patuxai | Pha That Luang | That Dam | Wat Si Muang | Wat Si Saket | Wat Sok Pa Luang | Xieng Khuan
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